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Hola from Seville - where we have completed this year's voyage - a relaxed 407 miles over the past 5 weeks, bringing our total for the year to 871 miles. We have enjoyed generally favourable winds and spent most nights at anchor, avoiding marinas almost entirely. Our social life has been active during this period among the crews of several yachts and several nationalities - including two couples from Bristol who we will certainly be seeing again. After our excellent kayaking adventure in the northwest US, we returned to Aremiti in Nazare, half way down the west coast of Portugal. She was in fine form having been left in the very capable hands of Mike and Sally, the British couple who run the exceptionally friendly and helpful little marina. It took us quite a few days to settle back into cruising mode, while we did a few jobs and planned the remainder of our voyage.
The next leg - 47 miles - was to Cascais, just to the north of Lisbon. We set off in fog and no wind, but rounding Cabo de Roca (the westernmost point of mainland Europe) conditions changed miraculously, giving us sunshine and a good sailing breeze. We arrived just as the final race of the America's Cup World Series was starting. As soon as the race finished we crossed the 'race-track' over to the anchorage, finding ourselves in the midst of these extraordinary boats, still zooming around letting off steam with great excitement working off their adrenalin - together with a host of spectator boats in a very buzzy atmosphere. The next morning we woke to find the fleet of race boats anchored close by and so went out in the dinghy for a closer inspection. Going ashore to the very snazzy marina and up-market resort, it was fascinating to watch the dismantling of the race 'village' of pontoons, marquees and workshops - everything being loaded into containers ready for the next destination in the series. The 'sails' were particularly interesting - constructed like aircraft wings they broke down into sections for packing away. We set off from Cascais in a mixture of sunshine and fog. Amid fog banks drifting around offshore it was curious to have sunshine on deck and blue skies above, but low visibility all around at sea level - and somewhat disconcerting as we crossed the path of shipping heading into Lisbon. Around the next headland we encountered another fearsome wind acceleration but were well reefed in anticipation for the few miles along the coast to Sessimbra - our next stop. The wind continued all through the afternoon and into the night, though strangely seeming not to affect the long beach covered with holiday-makers, with not a single sun-umbrella flipping while we were anchored just 100 metres off the beach in 25-30 knots. Sessimbra was a nice little town - a domestic holiday resort dominated by a great Moorish castle - which we explored the next morning before the wind got up. The next leg was 34 miles to Sines - in no wind - our own fault to try to sail in the morning rather than waiting for the afternoon wind - we should have known better by then. Sines was a sleepy little place - just a working town rather than a resort and seemed rather poor and run-down - except for an incongruously swanky and enormous brand new marble-clad library. We decided on a night sail for our next passage - the 60 miles to round Cape St Vincent
- with a forecast for better winds overnight than for the following day, and then for
very strong winds for several days after that.
The little town of Alvor, situated between the large resorts of Lagos and Portimao, is on
a river which enters the sea in a shallow lagoon of shifting sandbanks. Breakwaters
protect the dredged entrance channel, but after that the mile or so channel to the town
becomes rather vague. We decided to stay at anchor just inside the breakwaters for the
night, planning to survey the route by dinghy at low water the next day before taking
Aremiti further into the lagoon. That night the forecast storm arrived, with tremendous
thunder, lightening and squalls with winds gusting up to 40 knots and dramatic shifts in
direction. Anchored in the deepest spot we could find, but with less than 2 metres under
the keel at low water, it was a nervous night - but all was well - thanks to our very
trusty Spade anchor. The next day we gingerly proceeded to anchor off the town. There we
found a large proportion of the anchored yachts were catamarans and not many deep keels
at all - and the very sad sight of a yacht on its side on a sandbank, having broken its
mooring in the previous night's winds.
From Alvor we moved on the few miles to Portimao marina for a 'pit stop' after a week and
a half at anchor - proper showers, laundry, boat cleaning and provisioning. The marina
was a complete contrast to Nazare in its soulless enormity (and extortionate cost).
Portimao itself seemed a non-descript town, but the little fishing village of Ferragudo
across the port was delightful and unexpectedly unspoilt. Our general impression of the
Algarve has been of fabulous golden beaches with spectacular rocky outcrops, arches and
stacks, backed by unfortunately huge and hideous high-rise resorts. We bypassed
Albufueira and Vilamoura entirely, favouring quieter anchoring spots. Our next
destination was paradise - otherwise known as Culatra.
It was difficult to decide on the next destination - all possibilities involved tidal entrances requiring specific timings of arrival (and then departure the following day) which were difficult to achieve, given that departure from Culatra was also governed by tide times. We finally settled on Mazagon, a small town at the mouth of the river leading to the port of Huelva nearly 60 miles to the east which at least had depth at all states of the tide. We left Culatra as early as feasible, following the channel out in a tide of up to 4 knots - hard to believe in the completely benign conditions - though we encountered very turbulent waters at the entrance. It was then a typical Portuguese day of two halves - no wind in the morning, and then a gradual built up during the afternoon, when we moved from cruising chute, main and mizzen sails, through various combinations, to genny and mizzen by the time we arrived at around 6.30pm - into the path of a strong outgoing tide. We spent the night anchored just outside the shipping channel behind the enormously long Juan Carlos I breakwater - a bleak but safe location. Our final day at sea took us 32 miles east to Chipiona - situated at the mouth of the River Guadalquivir - in rather atypical weather. Contrary to the forecast of winds from behind - as usual - we found ourselves beating into grey seas under a slightly squally grey sky. This aberrant weather pattern stayed with us for the next couple of days, while we investigated the 50 mile passage up the river to Seville. Chipiona itself was a delightful little town - another domestic holiday resort - built in exuberant Andalucian style with courtyards and tiling reminiscent of Arabic architecture - and palm trees, bourgainvillia and hibiscus in great abundance.
For the second half of the trip the river is narrow,
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