We are changing our modus operandi this year. Rather than going off cruising on Aremiti for the whole summer we’ll be coming and going from home – starting with this trip round to Falmouth where she’ll be based from now on. The passage was timed in the hope of arriving in Padstow en route for the traditional May Day celebrations there – a long-standing ambition, often thwarted by strong westerlies typical this early in the year. However, the forecasts were surprisingly good for the start of the trip – north-easterlies for the foreseeable future – most unusual in these parts. The Bristol Channel is not our favourite cruising area – nasty brown water with an unpleasant chop and ridiculous tides. As the end of April approached, we had quiet conditions so, with super strong spring tides, we decided to do the 100+ mile trip to Padstow in three easy stages to avoid fighting tide and night sailing, with anchoring stops en route.

We departed out of Portishead lock at 0700 – half an hour before high water. For the first hour the tide ran strongly against us – but the sun was shining and seas flat, with very light wind in no particular direction. However, once the tide turned we quickly got moving very fast – touching 10 knots and swooshing between the Holms in a race with a large Grimaldi car carrier by 0930. Once through, a slight course change enabled us to sail surprisingly well in very light adverse winds under genny and mizzen. We then found ourselves in a low-lying fog bank – lateral visibility of about half a mile, while bathed in sunshine. The wind gradually dropped out and we had to motor-sail the rest of the way, arriving off Porlock Weir to anchor - bearing in mind that the depth would increase by 11 metres while there! We spent a relaxing sunny afternoon being gently rocked by the passage of large ships – albeit with a slightly chilly breeze. 38 n miles.

The following morning we were glad to leave a little earlier than planned after a very unrestful night in the increasingly rolly anchorage. We caught excellent current immediately and kept it for the whole trip. There was absolutely no wind for the whole passage – so a good test for the engine! The water was gradually becoming more turquoise than brown in the bright sunshine as a couple of dolphins welcomed us into Bideford Bay where we anchored off Clovelly. 39 n miles.

My brother in his boat Dizzy arrived from Cardiff during the afternoon, having had to fight tide, along with another Cardiff boat Segeta. We decided to get the dinghy in the water to check it and the outboard over, after an 8 month lay-off. All was good, so we went ashore with my brother for a spot of what he calls ‘rehydration’, and a stroll round the impossibly pretty and quaint little village. By the time we got back to the boat given a fair breeze and bouncy water, we decided to put off hauling the dinghy and outboard back onboard until the morning calm.

That night was very windy and rolly – contrary to the forecast for a moderate offshore breeze. It was not a good start to the morning for any of the 3 boats. For us conditions for stowing the dinghy and outboard were ten times worse than the previous evening. C struggled valiantly to get the outboard aboard at least, but it was just too dangerous. While this struggle was going on we noticed Segeta dragging her anchor alarmingly towards us, with no-one on deck, though the engine was running. It turned out that their windlass was broken and they couldn’t get their anchor up. We decided to find a smoother spot to re-anchor for another attempt to stow the dinghy – this time successfully. However, while engaged in this, we noticed Dizzy apparently having difficulty getting their anchor up. It turned out they were well and truly snagged, couldn’t get free and had to cut the anchor rope and abandon it.

We all set off at about the same time – 0840 – into the stiff wind. We rounded Hartland Point in conditions definitely not conducive to towing a dinghy, but once wind and waves had settled down we got sailing southwards very nicely under reefed genny and mizzen at between 5-6 knots through the water and up to 9 over ground. The wind was up and down and reefs in and out as we hurtled along the coast, viewing highlights from a walking holiday last year – Hartland Quay, Bude, Milook and down to Tintagel. The wind increased over the day, and arriving too early to enter Padstow Harbour, we anchored off Polzeath beach. A couple of hours later the gate opened and we got onto the harbour wall, rafted between Dizzy and Segeta. With 6 boats entering the already busy harbour at the same time some chaos ensued. 45 n miles. After a good meal at The Shipwrights we had an early night – blissful to be in flat water with no anchors dragging!

The following day – 30 April – we found the town quiet but with an air of anticipation. Streets were already decked out in bunting – some in blue flags and others in red to denote the two May Day ‘parties’ and a huge beautifully decorated may pole. We asked at Tourist Info for any details about the May Day events to be told ‘it just happens’!

And so it did. The festivities got going at about 11.30 that evening with a parade to the maypole – and the singing of the ‘Night Song’ to the accompaniment of drums and an astonishing number of accordians. On May 1st, hearing drums and music at around 8am, we went ashore to find the Blue Ribbon Obby Oss kids’ parade. It was a gorgeous day and everyone was dressed in white trousers and tops, with buttonholes or head-dresses of cowslips and bluebells. The Blue Ribbon wear blue neckscarfs and sashes looking like sailors, and the Old Obby Oss party wear red sashes and neck or headscarfs – looking more piratical.

The main event started at the headquarters of each team waiting for each parade to emerge and march on different routes around the town, led by their Masters of Ceremonies. The bands were followed by the truly bizarre obby osses with everyone singing the May Day song. A very sweet touch was the obby oss being led down the slip in the harbour for a drink! These processions carried on all day all around the town and we found this genuinely community event both completely mad and extremely heart-warming.

 Unite and unite and let us all unite                                                        
 For summer is acome unto day
 And whither we are going we will all unite                                       
 In the merry morning of May
     

The following day all was quiet, apart from a flurry of early morning street cleaners. Boats began leaving the harbour, while we became very happily ‘stuck’ in Padstow for a week, on what will probably be the last of our many visits. We completed a few last boat jobs, did a couple of walks and generally soaked up the atmosphere. It was shocking to find no less than 8 Stein outlets – two restaurants, café, pub, fish and chip shop, fishmonger, delicatessen and gift shop – but we have to say that their pasties were a cut above!

Padstow is a brilliant place – but also a trap! The gate out of the harbour is open only 2 hours or less either side of high water which dictates departure times. With a passage of 60+ miles we wanted an early departure, but with the gate opening only around mid-day, we made our exit from the harbour the previous afternoon while we could, to move to a buoy in the Pool outside. The wind of 20 knots coming straight up the channel against the outgoing tide created hectic and bouncy conditions there. The harbourmaster offered the use of a huge RNLI buoy but with a huge hawser it was a difficult pick up, taking 3 attempts and the loss of a boathook. A large trip boat Jubilee Queen, arrived on the next door buoy whose crew suggested an alternative buoy because tide v wind conditions “will only get worse”. Sure enough we soon became pushed alongside the buoy bashing our hull, so we moved to the new one where we were less tide rode. Conditions gradually eased and we enjoyed a peaceful night.

Next morning we were up at 0430, ready to depart at first light. We set off down the channel at half-tide, crossing Doom Bar with 3.3 metres least depth – so no problem! We didn’t expect much wind, but got none – ironic after the previous evening! However, we enjoyed a relaxing day in peaceful sunshine. It was extremely satisfying to start rounding south, out of the dread Bristol Channel, passing familiar landmarks - Pendeen lighthouse and the industrial sites on the shore, past Sennen Cove and between Lands End and Longships, before turning east along the south coast.

At the Runnelstone we decided to continue on rather than stopping in Newlyn as planned. Heading across Mounts Bay we anchored in Mullion Cove on the west side of the Lizard Peninsula – a fabulously spectacular cove surrounded by great stack-like rocks and a picturesque little harbour in the corner. 67 n miles.

The final leg of the trip was a sting in the tail. The Lizard - the most southerly point of the British Isles has a notorious reputation at the best of times, but unfortunately the timing needed to be rounding the point with the tide, just happened to coincide with the part of the day with the strongest adverse winds. We gave the point an extremely wide berth, motor-sailing hard to avoid overfalls in the boisterous – but unfeasibly bright blue seas - and the job was done. 30 n miles.

We found our buoy in the Falmouth Haven field of moorings, by which time the wind had disappeared and we celebrated our arrival in a glassy blue sea. So far we’re delighted with our new home in Falmouth and all the possibilities it has to offer.